Mota Mahadev: A Towering Relic From Kolkata’s Glorious Past

Nestled in obscurity along 16, Mohammed Ramzan Lane, a stone’s throw from the mighty Ganga, the Durgeshwar Shiva temple, affectionately known as ‘Mota Mahadev,’ stands as a poignant testament to Bengal’s ancient architectural marvels. Even as the cityscape is in a state of continued evolution, with towering skyscrapers and urban sprawls slowly clawing their way, this sacred sanctuary, weathered yet resolute, continues to beckon seekers of solace and divine grace within its aatchala architecture.

Summoning memories of a bygone era, Sumit Biswas, a student of history and an ardent devotee, sitting on the steps of Nimtala Ghat, recounts his initial encounter with the majestic Mota Mahadev, a cherished ritual initiated by his late father nearly three and a half decades ago.

“Bathed in the early morning light, I was struck by the sheer grandeur of His presence within the ancient temple walls. His colossal form, cloaked in black, exuded a majestic aura that instantly captivated my heart. As a tender youth, I could only draw parallels to the imposing Mahabhairav temple in Tezpur, Assam, which I had glimpsed at the tender age of four. Yet, it was Mota Baba who drew me closer, his allure irresistible and profound,” he recalls.

But there is another reason Sumit was drawn to the colossal lingam. “Whenever I encounter such colossal idols, I cannot help but feel the immense divinity they represent,” he confides, adding, “Much akin to the compelling presence of Agameshwari Kali in Nawadeep or the venerable Durga of Ekdalia Evergreen, Mota Baba of Nimtolla holds an inexplicable sway over me. Without fail, I pilgrimage to His sacred abode each day, drawn by an unyielding devotion that compels me to seek His blessings before the break of dawn. Despite the arduous journey of seven kilometres from my humble abode, the fulfilment of this ritual has become the cornerstone of my daily existence.”

“In His august presence, I harbour an unwavering faith that He holds true to His promises and grants the desires of His devotees,” Sumit says, lost in his gaze towards the magnificent remnants of a temple.

The temple’s ancient origins, shrouded in the mists of time, bear witness to the ebb and flow of Kolkata’s storied history. Constructed circa 1794, the Buro Shiva temple stands silent, its towering form obscured by the creeping roots of a banyan tree. And within its hallowed confines, a ten-foot Shiva Lingam stands sentinel, its imposing stature a testament to the divine mysteries that lie within.

The temple’s daily rituals unfold with solemn grace, beginning at dawn with the reverential mangalarati and culminating with the Sandhya Aarti at 8:30 pm. Throughout the day, devotees offer prayers from beyond the sanctum’s threshold, immersed in the divine aura permeating the sacred precincts. As the day transitions to night, Mahadev’s abode is enveloped in divine tranquility until the dawn signals the start of another sacred cycle.

Amidst the whispers of Mota Mahadev’s mysterious past, tales abound of a sanctum door that once swung open to reveal emptiness where the revered Shiv Lingam had once rested, only for it to be later found adrift in the Ganges. Locals hold that the iron chains binding Mahadeva prevent his escape, though priests dismiss such notions as conjecture. Yet, for nearly three centuries, two massive chains have adorned the temple’s corner, their purpose veiled in mystery.

Reflecting on the temple’s weathered state, devotee Sumit marvels at how not a single stone has dislodged despite the absence of plaster and exposed bricks. Whispers among the devout suggest the temple’s antiquity may surpass historical records, with speculation rife about the towering Shiva Lingam predating the temple itself-a notion bolstered by the disparity between the Lingam’s size and the temple’s entrance.

“Numerous voices suggest that the grand Shiva Lingam within existed prior to the temple’s construction, citing the incongruity between the Lingam’s size and the diminutive entrance. How could such a colossal deity fit through such a small door? It seems implausible,” Sumit ponders.

“The mighty Shiva Lingam inside predates the temple itself,” muses Sumit, pondering how such a monumental deity could fit through the modest entrance.

Despite the ravages of neglect, Mota Mahadev’s sanctity remains untarnished-a timeless relic that bridges the chasm between Kolkata’s past and its bustling present. As the city pulsates with the rhythm of modernity, this sacred site stands as reminder of Kolkata’s history, stuck in time, the mighty river flows by…